Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup requires mindful planning and a great deal of work. In most cases, you will require to do 3 types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must select the type of shower that you want to install. It is very important to establish whether the selected shower can dealing with certain systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are designed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose connection is easy, it is quickly dislodged. In addition, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive choice and no additional plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience troublesome temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise require extra plumbing of cold and hot water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of an effective electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the home. A significant drawback of electric showers is that the control knob just enables the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this issue is tackled in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head must either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drainage system to get rid of the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise need to be considered if an instant or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the supply of water. In order to protect the pipelines, they should be offered a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there must be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this choice, the main and circulation pipes will also need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding preserve maximum pressure and minimise unblocking a clogged drain guide heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can attain this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or overlooking local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.